Month: September 2023

Window Replacement
Home Improvement

How to Do Your Own Home Window Replacement

Robert Jones

Window Replacement Massachusetts is a relatively simple project requiring careful planning. Before starting, recruit a friend to help you carry the new window into place.Window Replacement

Set shims behind each pre-drilled screw hole to keep the window from bowing or pulling away from the jambs. Fill any gaps wider than 1/4 inch with a foam-rubber backer rod and caulk the area.

If you have a window frame with rotting wood, it will need to be replaced or repaired. A simple way to check for rot is to use a screwdriver and press into the corners of the frame. If the wood feels soft and spongy, it’s a sign that rot is present. In some cases, the rot will be so extensive that the entire frame needs to be replaced. If this is the case, calling a professional for window replacement is a good idea.

There are several different types of frames, including aluminum, vinyl, fiberglass, and traditional wooden frames. Each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. The best choice for your home depends on the style of your house and your budget.

Aluminum frames cost between $200 and $500 and don’t require much maintenance. However, they aren’t very effective at insulating your home and can be susceptible to expanding and contracting in response to changing temperatures.

Composite frames are more durable than wood, but they can also be prone to damage and rot. Fortunately, they’re easy to repair and can last up to 50 years.

Another common problem with composite frames is broken seals and hardware components, which can be easily fixed by a professional. This is usually the result of an impact or weather event and typically doesn’t require a full replacement. Nevertheless, a professional will need to inspect your windows and determine the best course of action. They may recommend additional weatherstripping or sealing to create a more insulated seal. This will help to reduce drafts and energy loss. Alternatively, a professional can use spray foam to fill the gaps between the frames and the wall.

Glass

A cracked or damaged window pane not only looks bad but can also be a safety hazard. Depending on the extent of the damage, it may be necessary to replace the entire window or just the glass.

The glass itself can usually be repaired fairly easily. Small chips or smudges can be fixed with the appropriate paint and sanding to prevent moisture from seeping into the frame and causing further damage. The locking hardware can also be adjusted and lubricated to help with operation.

If the window is foggy or exhibiting condensation between the panes this could be a sign of a failed seal in the insulating glass unit (IGU). The IGU is made up of two or more panes of glass with an air gap between them that can be vacuum sealed or filled with an inert gas like argon or krypton to add additional energy efficiency. The seal failure can lead to condensation between the panes, or “blown windows” that can’t be repaired. If the window frame is still in good shape it might be possible to upgrade the IGU with a new insert.

The frame of a window can be made of wood, fiberglass, or vinyl. It is important to check the integrity of the frame at least annually for any signs of rot, which can compromise both the structural stability of your home and the health of its occupants. If the frame is rotted through it may be necessary to replace it. However, if the wood is still solid and free of mold it might be possible to repair the frame and preserve its ambiance with a new insert. It is important to be aware that replacing a window frame will likely require new sills, sash and operating hardware to keep the windows functional.

Weatherstripping

A 1/8-inch-wide gap around a door or window is like a 6-inch-square hole in your home, allowing drafts to sneak in and increase your heating and cooling bills. Replacing worn or damaged weather stripping is one of the easiest ways to lower energy bills and make your house more comfortable.

Before applying new weather stripping, clean the area using a damp sponge and mild detergent. This is to ensure that there is no grease or dirt that could damage the strip when it is applied. You may also want to use a glue-and-adhesive remover, but follow all manufacturer instructions carefully to avoid damaging the surrounding area.

Several types of weather stripping are available for doors and windows, with different materials suited for specific locations and purposes. Felt and open-cell foams are inexpensive but easily damaged, visible and inefficient at blocking air flow, while vinyl and metal options are more expensive but last for years and are durable.

When deciding how much weather stripping to purchase, measure the areas to be sealed twice before making any cuts and add 5% to 10% for waste. It’s important to apply the weather stripping snugly against both surfaces so that it compresses when the door or window is shut.

Window weather stripping is more complicated than for doors, as it has to be placed above and below the sashes as well as between them. Vinyl “V” strips are suitable for most windows and can be purchased in rolls of various widths to suit any size frame.

For more complex windows, professional installation is recommended, especially for double-hung windows, which require multiple strips to keep the sashes from rubbing against each other and creating gaps. A knowledgeable window specialist can help you choose the appropriate type of weather stripping for your home.

Sash

A window sash is the interior part of your home’s windows that holds the glass and operates to push it up or down. The sash is located just inside the frame and can be made of wood, aluminum or vinyl. Wood is a popular choice because it has a natural appearance and offers added durability. However, it is expensive and needs to be regularly stained or painted to protect the surface. Aluminum is a lightweight option that resists warping and is easy to maintain. However, it does not provide as much insulation as wood.

If your window sash is no longer able to be opened or closed properly, this may indicate that it is time for a replacement. A new sash is an investment that will offer increased energy efficiency and improve the overall look of your home. Alternatively, you can conduct a window repair instead if the problem is localized and not a result of general structural issues.

The first step to repairing a window sash is to remove the pegs holding the components together. This can be done with a pin punch and hammer. The goal is to remove the pegs without damaging the wood. Once the pegs are removed, a mallet can be used to separate the rail and stile. This will allow you to examine the joints and make any necessary repairs.

When a window sash is not being opened and closed correctly, it can cause water to leak into the home and create a poor seal. This can also lead to rot within the frame and sill. It is important to inspect your windows on a regular basis to ensure that they are functioning properly.

Trim

Window trim is not just an important structural component of a window, it also adds to the aesthetic of your home. It covers the gap between the frame and wall, concealing unsightly construction and providing a finished appearance for your interior. It also offers functional benefits such as insulating and blocking UV light and noise. Window casing is available in a variety of materials and styles to complement your home’s design, from traditional to craftsman.

For homeowners with basic woodworking skills, replacing interior window trim and casing can be a DIY project. Begin by purchasing your materials and measuring the width and length of the window frame where you plan to install the trim. Measurements are necessary to ensure the proper fit and avoid wasting materials. For best results, use a miter saw to cut your trim pieces. Once the pieces are cut, apply a thin line of adhesive to the back and press them firmly against the wall.

The exterior trim should be durable and long-lasting to stand up to the elements. The most common exterior materials are MDF and finger-joint pine, but solid wood is also an option. However, solid wood can be prone to splitting and cracking, so it may require more maintenance. For a durable, cost-effective, and easy-to-maintain option, consider preservative-treated wood. It withstands the elements better than traditional cedar and provides a natural, classic look. It is also available in a variety of finishes and hardware, making it easier to match the style of your existing exterior trim or complete a historically accurate renovation. Belco Forest Products offers this product as an eco-friendly alternative to other wood window trim options.

clean chimney sweep
Chimney Cleaning

What is the Job Description of a Chimney Sweep?

Vivian Harmon

Clean Chimney Sweep Charleston is a professional who cleans, inspects, and repairs fireplaces and chimneys. They are trained to use insulated ladders and tools, wear masks when handling flammable substances, and follow safety guidelines.

clean chimney sweep

Chimney sweeps used to be small boys, sometimes as young as 4. They climbed narrow chimneys on their backs and knees with brushing and scraping tools.

A chimney is designed to safely vent smoke, carbon monoxide, and other particulates out of your home. Unfortunately, when a duct becomes blocked with creosote and debris, this can cause serious safety issues, including dangerous chimney fires that could easily spread to your home. Chimney sweeps have the equipment and training to clean your chimney and prevent these hazardous conditions properly.

When selecting a chimney sweep, look for one that is CSIA certified, ensuring they have the professional qualifications to service your chimney correctly. The chimney sweeper should also have a clean track record and business insurance covering any accidents or damages that may occur during the cleaning and inspection process.

The primary reason to hire a chimney sweep is to reduce the amount of creosote build-up in your fireplace and chimney. It is the primary cause of chimney fires and a major hazard to your family’s health. Regular chimney sweeping will remove most of this flammable byproduct and significantly lower the risk of a chimney fire.

Chimney sweeps also clean out animal nests, debris, and other obstructions from the chimney flue. It includes leaves, twigs, and small animals’ nests that can block the chimney from properly drafting smoke into your living spaces. An unobstructed vent will also improve heating efficiency and decrease your energy bills.

While many homeowners try to save money by hiring a chimney sweeper to clean their chimneys, this can be extremely dangerous for those who need the proper training and equipment. In addition to being very messy and time-consuming, DIY chimney cleaning can result in serious injuries and property damage. A chimney sweep is equipped with specialized tools, such as a vacuum and mask, that help minimize debris spillage into your home and ensure their safety.

In addition to cleaning your chimney, a reputable sweep will inspect it and recommend any necessary repairs. Most chimney sweeps have the skills and knowledge to perform various repair jobs, including installing new liners, replacing fireplace inserts, and more. They will also be able to detect signs of water penetration, chimney leaks, and other structural problems.

Creosote is a natural byproduct of wood-burning fires, and it is produced when the vaporized wood gases condense on the inside walls of your chimney or flue liner. Over time, this can build up and lead to long-term issues that need to be addressed, depending on the severity of the creosote. It can also be a dangerous threat to your home if it gets too thick and impedes the flow of smoke and gas from your fireplace into the chimney system and the outside atmosphere.

The amount of creosote that builds up within a chimney is often dictated by the type and moisture content of the firewood used, the strength of the flue draft, and the condition of the chimney lining. Burning wet wood and a weak flue draft can result in faster creosote build-up than seasoned dry wood with a strong and consistent fire.

Stage 1 creosote is soot-like and can be removed easily with a chimney brush as part of an annual cleaning. It is normal to see minor amounts of first-degree build-up if you have clean-burning fires with dry wood throughout the year.

Once the creosote reaches the second degree, it becomes harder, more sticky, and looks like black tar. It is a more hazardous form of creosote and can cause chimney fires and blockages. Removing it is often more difficult and may require specialized tools such as rotary chimney sweeps.

If you see signs of a second-degree build-up, contact your chimney sweep immediately. They can advise you on the best way to move forward to prevent this and help you get back to safe burning conditions.

Once the creosote deteriorates to the third degree, it can be extremely hazardous. It is thicker, looks more like tar, and can restrict the flow of smoke and gas through the chimney. It can also contaminate the home with toxic carbon monoxide. Chimney fires can destroy the chimney lining and lead to the potential of a house or rooftop fire, as well as causing smoke inhalation by the occupants.

Chimney sweeps are well-trained professionals who spot damage in a chimney. Injury can cause a fireplace to function improperly or leak into the home. Detecting such damage is one of the primary reasons for routine inspections. Damaged areas can go undetected for long, leading to costly repairs and even a chimney fire.

Chimney Sweeps also inspect the firebox and fireplace to ensure they are properly sized to vent smoke and combustion gases from the home efficiently. It’s common for a chimney to be under-sized, which leads to smoke back-up into the house and several serious problems, including moisture damage, structural damage, and even a fire.

A chimney is a popular place for bees, birds, and other wildlife to make their homes. Often, they need to take care of the chimneys as well as they should, which can lead to problems like clogged flues, poor venting, and even animal nesting within the chimney. Chimney sweeps are often called in to deal with these situations and can remove the critters from the chimney while preventing further damage to the structure.

If a chimney needs a cleaning, the sweep will begin by performing a visual inspection from the firebox to the flue opening. It includes the appliance’s firebox, damper, smoke chamber, baffle, and connector. Sweepers will also note and photograph any areas of concern. Next, they will set up a ladder to the roof and access the top of the chimney. They will then remove any chimney caps, inspect the chase and flue, and note and photograph any damaged areas.

Once the chimney has been inspected and cleaned, the sweeper will provide the homeowner with a written report of their findings. The information will include recommendations for any repair work necessary. It is highly recommended that homeowners take the advice of their chimney sweep and make any repairs as soon as possible. Neglecting such advice can lead to expensive and dangerous problems for the chimney system, the fireplace, and the home.

The chimney sweep will use brushes, extension poles, and a vacuum to clean your fireplace and flue. The process typically takes an hour. They will also remove animal nests and blockages from the top of the chimney. Chimney sweeps can often recommend repairs and help you select a new damper or chimney cap to keep animals and other critters out of your fireplace.

When the chimney sweep is done, they will give you a report of their work and any recommendations for needed repairs. The information will also provide documentation you can present to your home insurance company if required.

Chimney sweeping and cleaning remove the creosote, dirt, leaves, and debris accumulating in your chimney flue. This grime prevents the duct from easily directing smoke upwards and can damage your fireplace and chimney structure. A layer of soot can also stain the inside of your fireplace and make it hard to clean.

In addition to cleaning your chimney, a professional sweep can repair any cracks or holes in the chimney and flue lining. They can also fix chimney leaks, install smoke detectors, and replace chimney caps. Chimneys can be very dangerous, especially if they are damaged. Chimney repairs can be expensive, so it’s best to hire a professional chimney sweeper to complete the necessary chimney sweep services.

When a chimney is in good condition, it will last for years. It’s important to inspect and clean it regularly to ensure it is structurally sound and safe. A basic inspection, known as a level one inspection, is usually included in the cost of your chimney sweep. If you need a more comprehensive assessment (level two or level three), this will incur an additional charge.

While the lives of early chimney sweeps have been romanticized in books, movies, and artwork, it was a tough job that often involved long hours of manual labor and exposure to soot and chemicals. Soot inhalation can lead to respiratory problems, and physical contact with creosote can cause rashes and other skin issues.

Gas Piping Inspection
Gas Services

Gas Piping Inspection

Marianne Watkin

Gas lines that corrode or leak can pose serious health and safety risks. In response, law requires building owners to inspect their gas piping systems periodically.Gas Piping Inspection

Under Local Law 152 of 2016, all buildings except those classified in occupancy group R-3 must have their gas piping inspected by a DOB-licensed master plumber or a qualified individual under an LMP’s direct supervision. The DOB online GPS1 portal must submit inspection reports and certifications by the applicable deadlines. For professional help, contact NYC Gas Piping Inspection.

Gas pipe size is important in ensuring the proper flow rate and pressure for your gas system. It is a crucial element to consider when designing a new gas installation, replacing old or worn gas pipes, or working on a current installation. Properly sizing the pipe can help eliminate problems such as low pressure, inefficient flow rate, and energy waste.

To calculate the required gas pipe size, you can use a common sizing chart that helps determine the necessary pipe diameter based on BTU output and pipe length. Start by determining the total Btu input rate of all gas appliances in your building or installation. Then, divide the Btu input rate by the piping’s maximum demand to get the total gas flow rate needed per hour. Once you know the total gas flow rate, multiply it by the index length to find the required pipe diameter in inches of nominal size.

It is also helpful to know the pipe’s pressure drop and how long each section of piping is. This will help you determine if there is enough capacity for the system, or if it needs to be enlarged. This information can be found in the sizing tables included with a listed piping system’s manufacturer’s installation instructions.

For example, if the piping system has four or more elbows or tees, you need to account for the additional pressure loss associated with each of these fittings. This can significantly reduce the available capacity of a long pipe run. To prevent this, you can account for each elbow or tee using an equivalent length calculation to ensure that your system will have sufficient capacity for its intended use.

All New York City buildings except those classified in occupancy group R-3 must have their gas piping systems inspected by a Licensed Master Plumber (LMP), or a qualified individual working under the direct and continuing supervision of an LMP, at least every four years according to the schedule set out in 1 RCNY SS103-10. The LMP must also complete a Gas Piping System Periodic Inspection Report(Opens in a new window) that details all of the results for the owner to review. The inspection report should identify conditions requiring correction, such as frayed or worn piping components that affect safe and reliable operation and non-code compliant installations or illegal connections.

Inspection Requirements

New York City’s Local Law 152 of 2016 requires that all buildings except one- and two-family homes and buildings classified in Occupancy Group R-3 must have their gas piping inspected by a New York State-licensed Master Plumber (LMP) or an individual working under the supervision of an LMP at least once every four years. These inspections must include all accessible portions of the building’s gas piping, including boiler rooms and amenity spaces, rooftop mechanical areas and any other publicly-accessible parts of the property where gas piping is located.

During the inspection, the LMP must examine all parts of the gas piping system for unsafe conditions that require correction. This includes frayed or worn piping components that can affect the safe and reliable operation of the system, non-code compliant installations or illegal connections, and other violations of NYC construction codes. The inspector must also test the piping for leaks of combustible gas.

The inspector will then issue the owner of the building a GPS1 Report within 30 days of the inspection, documenting all findings. Building owners are required to keep these reports and certifications on file for 10 years and make them available to DOB upon request. If the inspector identifies any hazardous or unsafe condition, the LMP must notify you and the utility that provides gas service to your building. Then, you must take immediate action to correct the condition and submit a new certification.

If the inspection results in a violation, you must submit a GPS2 Certificate of Compliance to DOB using the online portal. DOB will review the submitted information and determine if any additional work is necessary to comply with the regulation.

When you hire an LMP to inspect your building’s gas piping, DOB strongly recommends you use the “Know Your Construction Professional” tool to check the license status of the person and to view their disciplinary and voluntary surrender records. If you need more time to have your building inspected, you can request a 180-day extension using the GPS2 Online Submission Portal.

Inspection Reports

Pipelines are crucial infrastructure that carry essential products like oil, gas and water over long distances. However, these pipes are subject to wear and tear from the passing of time, and they can be damaged by corrosion, cracks or other problems that may affect safety and efficiency. Performing pipeline inspections regularly helps to extend their lifespan, minimize risk and ensure compliance with regulatory standards.

During a pipeline inspection, qualified inspectors use a variety of techniques to thoroughly examine the exterior and interior of each pipe. Some methods, like intelligent pigs that travel through the pipe and record data as they do so, are more precise than others, but all can spot issues such as corrosion, leaks, or anomalies that could threaten people and property.

Once a qualified inspector has inspected the pipe, they will provide the building owner with a report that shows the results of the inspection. The report must include all of the information gathered by the inspector, as well as any recommendations for corrective action. The report must be signed and sealed by the LMP who conducted or supervised the inspection. It is important that this certification is submitted to DOB within 60 days, or else the building will need to have a new inspection performed.

If a pipe inspection finds unsafe or hazardous conditions, the LMP must notify the building owner, the utility company that provides gas to the property, and the DOB. The building owner must then take steps to correct the condition(s), in accordance with NYC construction codes, and obtain a work permit where necessary.

Local Law 152 of 2016 requires that gas piping in all buildings except those classified as occupancy group R-3 be inspected by a licensed master plumber (LMP) or a qualified individual working under an LMP’s direct and continuing supervision at least once every four years. The law also requires that all exposed gas piping must be tested using portable combustible gas detectors, including those in boiler rooms, hallways and corridors, and all amenity and common spaces in multifamily residential buildings.

The City of New York maintains a database of inspection schedules online, organized by community district. Building owners can check this website to determine when their inspection is due, but they are required to submit an inspection report within 60 days of the date indicated in their notification letter. If an extension is needed, the building owner must request one via the city’s online portal before the deadline expires.

Corrective Action

The gas pipeline inspection process helps ensure that these important lines remain safe and functioning as they should. If an issue is found, the corresponding corrective steps need to be taken immediately in order to prevent further damage and possible accidents. This includes shutting off the gas to the affected area and evacuating any buildings or residences within the building. Taking these steps can help mitigate dangers and prevent the need for costly repairs or replacements down the road.

Gas line inspections can also help identify clogs, blockages and leaks. Regular inspections can catch these issues early, when they are much easier and cheaper to repair than once a problem becomes serious. Additionally, a regular inspection can uncover aging equipment that may need to be replaced or cleaned out, making your system run more efficiently and effectively and possibly saving you money in the long run.

Some of the most dangerous issues associated with natural gas lines are caused by improperly placed or positioned pipes. These problems can lead to leaks, ruptures or a lack of structural support. Through regular inspections, these issues can be spotted early and resolved before they cause major safety concerns or expensive damage to the system.

In addition to regular field inspections, many operators are required to perform specialized inspections based on specific factors or on particular types of issues. For example, if a system is found to be particularly prone to stress corrosion cracking (SCC), the operator will need to conduct a series of specialized inspections to help prevent these problems in the future.

SCC can be caused by a number of different factors, including operating and maintenance history, material properties, and environmental conditions. As such, the SCC-prone areas are typically more regularly inspected than other parts of the system.

Local Law 152 requires that all building owners with residential and commercial occupancies in New York City have their gas service lines inspected every three years in residential districts and annually in business districts. The inspections must include a gas leakage survey and visual inspection of atmospheric corrosion on all exposed piping to the gas meter inside the building. Additionally, the law requires that any bare steel or unprotected plastic gas service lines discovered during inspections or construction must be added to the operators’ DIMP written plans and either abandoned or converted to cathodic protection as soon as practicable.

Roofing

Roofing Basics

Delma Coleman

Roofs are important structures that protect the inside of buildings from rain, snow, and sun. Roofing comes in a variety of shapes and materials. The process is similar whether you’re building a new home or reroofing an existing one. First, the old shingles are torn off and disposed of.

roofing

Shingles are the most recognizable element of a roof, and for good reason. They provide protection and add to the beauty of a home. Whether made of asphalt, wood, clay, or slate, they are designed to overlap and create a barrier that prevents water from penetrating the house. But, as with any material that protects a home from the elements, shingles don’t last forever and will eventually need to be replaced.

There are many shingle types to choose from, all offering different benefits, but the most popular is asphalt shingles. These are available in various colors, designs, and styles. Some are made with organic materials such as recycled paper, rags, or cellulose. Still, most are manufactured with fiberglass mats and coated with an asphalt compound infused with mineral granules to provide added durability and weather resistance.

Other shingle options include wood shingles made of cypress, redwood, or western red cedar, which are resistant to rot. They are usually kiln-dried to minimize warping and may be plain, quartersawn, or hand split with a thick butt end. They can be stained or painted to keep the color, although most are left natural to fade to a silver-like tone over time.

Some shingles have a strip of a thermally-activated adhesive on the bottom that attaches them to other shingles during installation. This adhesive is also used to seal the underside of the shingle to prevent moisture penetration, which could lead to mold, mildew, and wood rot.

While many homeowners choose to install a new shingle roof themselves, it is generally best left to a professional. Especially for complex roofs or high-roof construction, experience is necessary to avoid unforeseen problems and costly mistakes. Also, if you install a more exotic roofing system (like slate or clay), a specialty tradesperson with specialized training is recommended to ensure the job is done correctly.

Roofing underlayment is the secondary layer of protection on your roof deck. It acts as a moisture barrier to prevent rain and other harsh weather from infiltrating your home and damaging the sheathing boards and other roof parts. It also helps to prevent ice dams from building up and destroying your roof, especially in sensitive areas such as eaves, valleys, and dormers.

While some people may consider this an unnecessary extra, a quality underlayment is critical for your roof to perform well. Without one, sheathing boards can quickly deteriorate. If you have an older home with pine or fir sheathing, it’s particularly important to use a fire-resistant underlayment that can help keep your roof safe from potential fire and protect your belongings.

Several types of roofing underlayment are available to homeowners, from traditional asphalt-saturated felt to modern synthetic products. The choice depends on the environment, roof covering, and other factors. For instance, a metal roof requires an underlayment that can handle high temperatures, while a wood or asphalt shingle roof needs something to help resist the effects of fire.

Most roofers prefer using non-bitumen synthetic underlayment, a base mat saturated with asphalt and designed to be used across the entire roof deck. It is also water-resistant and often coupled with waterproof underlayment products. Asphalt-saturated felt underlayment was the standard until a few decades ago, but it started to fade in popularity as more effective synthetic products came on the market.

Felt underlayment is the most commonly used product for residential roofing and was historically available in two weights: 15 pounds per square foot and 30 pounds per square foot. The 15-pound felt was for light projects, and the 30 offered more heavy-duty protection. While it is not fully waterproof, it is very water-resistant and provides an excellent base for the primary roof cover.

Proper underlayment is as vital for your roof’s longevity as the shingles. If you choose the wrong type of underlayment, it can significantly reduce your shingle lifespan and cause damage to the other parts of your roof. If you decide on a new top, consider speaking with an experienced roofing contractor about which underlayment fits your needs and budget.

A thin piece of metal that is highly resistant to moisture flashing is vital to roofing. It’s installed where a roof is most prone to leaks, such as in the areas where walls meet the ceiling, penetrations, valleys, and edges. Roof flashing is typically made from galvanized steel.

When properly installed, flashing seals the gaps between a shingled roof and any wall, penetration, or edge of the house. It prevents water and ice from entering these critical areas. In some older homes, the lack of or poorly installed flashing has led to serious and expensive structural damage.

Professional roofers install the flashing in various configurations depending on where it’s needed. For example, it’s used to protect the area where a dormer is attached to a sloping roof and to prevent rain from running down the side of the building. This type of flashing is called dormer flashing, and it comes in the form of square pieces that are added between every row of shingles or other roofing material.

Other kinds of flashing include chimney, pipe, and step flashing. These are often pre-fabricated and come in different shapes to suit cladding and roof designs. They can also be fabricated to a custom shape where necessary.

For example, chimney flashing is usually curved to match the shape of a chimney. Pipe flashing is designed to fit the cylindrical contour of pipes. Step flashing consists of pieces of flashing material overlapping in “steps,” It’s frequently used to waterproof the joints at dormers, roof penetrations, and walls.

If you have leaky walls or ceilings, it’s important to have a professional inspect your roof. They can help determine whether the problem is caused by missing or faulty flashing or if another issue is to blame.

A qualified roofer can assess the state of your roof, recommend any repairs, and provide you with a free estimate. To learn more or schedule a roof inspection, contact Hedrick Construction in Huxley, Iowa, serving Ankeny and surrounding areas.

Ventilation is moving air through a space to control moisture and temperature levels. It is essential for building and room comfort and ensuring indoor air quality (IAQ). This can be accomplished through natural, mechanical, or hybrid ventilation.

Many people are familiar with natural ventilation. Opening a window on a hot day or using the bathroom exhaust fan to draw moisture from the shower are common examples of natural ventilation. In addition to controlling humidity, natural ventilation can reduce energy costs and extend the life of shingles and other roof components.

Intake vents are typically found in the soffits of a home, while exhaust vents are often located on the roof’s ridge. Both types of vents can be used to provide a balanced ventilation system that is suitable for most homes.

Without ventilation, heat can build up in the attic. When this heat comes into contact with shingles, it can damage them and shorten their lifespan. This is why it is so important to have a well-ventilated attic.

When a roof is not properly ventilated, the heat can also cause ice dams in the winter. These ice dams can tear down gutters, soffits, and shingle tabs. They can even damage the insulation inside a home, leading to mold and mildew. Proper roof ventilation prevents this by allowing the hot air to escape into the attic while cooler air moves in to take its place.

Suppose you want to add ventilation to your home or update the existing ventilation. In that case, it is best to use a professional roofer who can provide the right type of vents for your particular roofing system. In addition to providing a balanced approach, they will also ensure that you have enough vents for the size of your attic. The more attic space, the more vents you need to ensure proper ventilation. In addition, the location of intake and exhaust vents is also critical. Intake vents should be as close to the source of odors or pollutants.